Frequently asked questions

Do you have a question? You'll find most of the answers here.

  • E-mail: or

    phone: +41 76 468 98 66

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  • Returns must be sent back to us undamaged and complete in the original packaging within 14 days of receipt. Damaged, soiled or already used items cannot be returned. The right of return does not apply to discount sales. Please contact us before returning your order at Worms are excluded from return.

    For cancellations, please send an email with your order number, name, IBAN and reason for cancellation to The refund of the paid amount will take approximately 2 weeks. If you have already paid for your order, please also send us your bank account details.

    Click here for our terms and conditions.

  • Spare parts can be ordered either in our shop (CH) or by e-mail (EU area). If you order by e-mail, please send us your billing and delivery address and the exact part you need.

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  • Please send us an e-mail with photos of the damaged part, the packaging, your order number and/or your name to: We will send you spare parts as soon as possible.

  • No. You will automatically receive a tracking code from Swiss Post. You can use this to arrange a drop-off authorisation online. The worm parcel fits in the mailbox tray/milk compartment and is always sent separately from other products.

  • After receipt of payment by Thursday, 23:59, your WormUp product will be delivered the following week. The dispatch day for stock products is Monday, arrival on Wednesday, Thursday at the latest. Your product will be shipped with Swiss B-Post (or DHL in the EU - you will automatically receive an e-mail with the tracking code).

    Worms: The worms will be sent separately by A Mail.

    SCALE / Raised Bed: You will be contacted by us for delivery. Please note the special delivery information on our homepage. Contact us if you want to postpone the dispatch of your order.

    You will find further information on delivery in the Shipping Policy

  • No, collection is not possible.

  • The clay products are handmade in southern Germany in a traditional clay factory using moulds. The WormUp SCALE and the raised bed are manufactured in Brüttisellen CH in a training company and supplied with Swiss wood. The WormUp worm farm is located in Valais, in the EU we work together with supply partners.

  • Reduce your waste by up to 50%. Valuable nutrients remain in their natural cycle - worm composting closes natural cycles, even in urban areas. Gain valuable worm humus - for your garden, balcony or indoor plants 🌱
    Worm humus ensures stronger growth and improves the resistance of your plants to diseases and pests as well as the oxygen supply to the soil.

  • Worm compost is an environmentally friendly, organic fertiliser made from the excrement of compost worms. It is one of the most powerful long-term organic fertilisers available. Compost worms have a very special mixture of beneficial enzymes and bacteria in their digestive system.

  • No, composting with the WormUp HOME and our other compost systems doesn't stink. The composter smells wonderfully earthy to woody or very slightly of the waste that you have just thrown in.

  • It could be that they are all hanging on to a tasty piece of vegetable/fruit (they particularly like this) or, if you have the HOME outside, they were a bit cold and have therefore grouped together. It is also possible that it is rather dry in the composter - the compost mass should always be slightly moist. Squeeze a handful of compost together (without the worm!). If it falls apart, it is too dry. If you can form a "ball" with it that holds together, the moisture is ideal. If moisture escapes when you press it together, it is too moist. In any case, such worm balls are usually no cause for concern, and the worms usually gather at the edges if there is too much food and too little structural material. It should also not be too moist in the composter - the worms breathe through their skin (which is why it is important that the HOME contents are not soggy). So be sure to mix in the cardboard, leaves and dry soil. Take a 2-week break from feeding (worms eat/slurp their food several times and don't starve so quickly...). As long as the worms don't run away and stay outside the composter, you don't need to worry too much. They often crawl along the edge because they find slime/light mould etc. there and like to "slurp" it up.

  • You can use the worm soil as fertiliser for your potted plants or your garden. Mixing ratio: 20% worm humus, 80% soilThe finished compost is best stored like all other soils. It should be closed but air-permeable and rather dark. This prevents the seeds in the worm compost from germinating and uninvited guests from settling in the soil.

  • In general, the worms' food should consist of 1/3 to 1/2 cellulose/structural material (cardboard, dry leaves, plant stems, root balls, organic flower bouquet waste...)

    Additional water almost never needs to be added - the moisture in the worms' food is sufficient with regular feeding.

    Immediate measure: Mix dry cardboard, other structural material or 2-3 litres of old flower pot soil (unfertilised) into the compost mass in all tiers or the remaining tiers. You can also add a handful of rock flour or our Mineral Mix to each level. A feeding break of 2 to 3 weeks also works wonders.

  • All the small animals/eggs are most likely spider mites (their eggs), i.e. small arachnids with 8 legs. These are part of the process and are not a problem for the ecosystem. Mites are particularly helpful with larger lumps: they use their teeth to break the material down into smaller components. You also don't have to worry about the mites migrating to other animals such as cats or spreading elsewhere in the house. If you have the feeling that they are getting out of hand, it may be that the balance is a little off - too moist and possibly too acidic. Mites like a warm and humid climate - be sure to check all layers (are there still enough worms, are the layers soggy, too damp...)

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  • Maggots prefer animal or protein-rich food (leftover food and animal waste - cheese, eggs, meat should not be put in the worm composter). Maybe they are not maggots at all? If you are unsure, send a photo of the inside of your composter to our personal assistance.

  • Don't worry, mould is part of the process and is not a problem at all - neither for the worms nor for the composting process. The worms eat the mould, they appreciate the preliminary work of the fungi in breaking it down! Some people are allergic to fungal spores, so it's worth burying the mouldy bits a little, or mixing everything up a little. Observe what is mouldy and where. It is often because the waste does not have good contact with the bottom. Pressing the waste down a little after feeding also helps. The mould usually disappears by itself after a while.

  • Great, then it's time to put your feet up and relax. With a well-established system, the worms can easily be left unattended for a month. If you are lucky enough to be on holiday for longer, your plant sitter will certainly be happy to give the worms an extra treat.

  • Don't worry, seeds germinating in the composter is normal and a good sign! To prevent the seedlings from growing large and rooting through everything, you can bend the stems or pull out the plants. The seedlings will then compost themselves!

  • It may be too moist in the HOME or you may have put something in there that smells bad (cabbage, for example). It is usually sufficient to increase the proportion of structural material in the composter. If you are unsure, contact our personal assistance.

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  • Sometimes the worms are just a little lethargic, as soon as you nudge them a little they move again. Also note that a worm cannot move in a flash :-) Individual dead worms can occur - it is best to rummage through the worm compost a little and check for consistency, moisture, unpleasant odours and the presence of worms. The worm population in HOME regulates itself and dead worms are "broken down" in a maximum of 2 days.

  • The most likely cause could be a mineral deficiency. However, the worms will not die from this. It helps if you occasionally mix finely ground eggshells or our mineral mix into the food or 1-2 litres of old soil (from an old flower pot or directly from an unfertilised field). However, if you notice a lot of dead worms, your worm composter smells bad or liquid is leaking out, please contact us as soon as possible our personal assistance.

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  • Bloated/strangled worms are a critical sign that your mini-ecosystem is out of balance and about to tip over. You should react quickly, otherwise the worms could die; the reason for the reaction, which is sometimes referred to as a disease (pearl string), is too little oxygen, too little carbon-rich (cellulose-containing) food, too much protein-rich food and an environment that is too acidic. It is best to remove the "sick" worms with a spoon or similar and bury them outside or in a flower pot; it could also be that you have fed too much recently (if the layer of fresh waste is very thick and almost slimy), then take some of the waste out again (and bury it in a large flower pot or similar). As an immediate measure: be sure to mix approx. 2 egg carton boxes or other unprinted cardboard (to dry), small twigs or similar into the compost mixture (with a shovel/spoon) - the air should be able to circulate. Also mix 1 to 2 litres of old soil (unfertilised from a field or from an old flower pot - no fresh soil from the gardening shop! If it doesn't get better - contact our personal assistance.

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  • Compost worms of the species Eisenia fetida (Red Wiggler) and/or Dendrobena spp. These species occur naturally in Europe.

  • Vegetable and fruit waste, fibre-rich materials (toilet paper rolls, cardboard from packaging, egg cartons, plant stems), coffee grounds, tea bags etc.

    Do not belong in the worm composter: Mustard, cooked food, salted food scraps, cheese rinds, meat, bones, pasta, rice, pulses, ash, wood, plastic, metal, pet faeces.

    Here you will find a detailed overview of the worm food, which can be fed every day or just once a week. The advantage of weekly feeding is that you can observe what is being broken down and thus have information about the worm speed. Less worm food is not a problem, the worms will eat the composter contents several times.

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  • Compost worms outdoors: The worm population retreats into deeper layers in winter and comes back to the surface when temperatures warm up. This also means that the worms will "eat" almost no waste in winter. As their comfort temperature is between 18°C and 25°C, they go down at least one gear in November (if the temperature is too high, they try to escape into the cool...). At air temperatures of around 10°C they don't go dormant, but they are no longer particularly agile, let alone active feeders. The state of hibernation occurs when the weather deviates too much from the needs of the worms. At around 4°C, the animals largely cease their vital functions so that they are no longer dependent on food for a certain period of time - this is when you have to take a break from feeding. Compost worms then curl up in a ball and hope for more favourable times. In fact, hibernation is the most intensive form of hibernation, as the animals are out of action until the temperature rises again. Worms do not like temperatures that are too hot or too cold and it can happen relatively quickly that the worms die or flee (a few hours - depending on the extremes). Worms can survive temperatures from 3°C to 35°C.

  • If the general conditions such as climate and food quantity/species are right, your worms will lay cocoons and reproduce. The worm population in the composter regulates itself and dead worms are "broken down" in a maximum of 2 days. So you have a self-renewing system and no need to buy more worms.

  • The snails may have got into the composter through soil or waste contaminated with eggs. Otherwise, snails and slugs have no chance of finding their way into the closed composter. They don't do any harm, but if you garden yourself, you certainly don't want to create a snail farm (they have no natural enemies in the HOME composter either). The best thing to do is to collect the uninvited guests and relocate them.

    Woodlice are no danger to the worms. They break up the material in the composter and thus help with composting (they are so-called "shredders"). The amount of woodlice that can exist alongside the voracious worms is limited because the worms eat everything quickly. However, if it is rather dry in the composter, they can often appear in large quantities.

    If the composter is outside, it is normal for a few ants to find their way in. It helps to place the composter feet in water (e.g. in a large saucer), like the moat in a castle. If it is too dry in the HOME, spray the compost with water from time to time.

  • The clay has a breathable and moisture-regulating effect. Both are properties that lead to an optimal worm-composting environment in the composter's mini-ecosystem. In addition to the functional advantages of clay, there is the attractive appearance and durability of the material.

    At the end of the product's long service life, the entire system can be easily dismantled into individual parts and simply recycled.

  • The HOME should be placed in a shady spot in the home, cellar, hallway or outside (only if temperatures allow, between 10°C-30°C). Outside, the composter should be protected from the rain as the clay absorbs water. Information on location and operation can be found in the instructions.

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  • The WormUp HOME is designed for a 1-4 person household - capacity: 0.6 - max. 1.3kg/week.

  • As our composter is made of breathable clay, it equalises moisture differences. There is no worm juice in our HOME. The nutrients are all bound in the compost.

  • In principle, one more ring on the HOME is not a problem. However, please note: additional ring elements are not necessarily good for the composting process. Worm composting is area composting = the larger the area on which you can spread the waste thinly, the more you can compost. Piles must not be formed, because heat is generated in them during decomposition - the worms don't like that.

  • It takes about 6-8 months until the first harvest, after that you should be able to harvest every 2-3 months. Of course, this also depends on the amount and type of food.

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  • The grid allows you to lift the individual working elements without the soil or humus falling out. At the same time, the worms can move up and down the entire system through the grids. In the HOME 2, the grids are replaced by the tapering of the upper clay part.

  • The new Home 2 is cheaper, easier to use and more sustainable in production:

    • Cheaper: The price is self-explanatory
    • Easier to use: The new Home consists of just two elements instead of three. There are no more grids to insert and therefore no more need to pay attention to the contact between the levels. Harvesting is also much easier without the grids: only the upper element needs to be placed on its side and the lower element can be harvested. After harvesting, the material from the upper element can be "poked" downwards using the supplied spoon (also the handle of the lid), which also loosens up and aerates the material.
    • More sustainable in production: it no longer requires grids and has fewer individual parts to produce. On the one hand this and on the other hand the smaller packing size (with the same volume) reduces transport distances.
  • In most cases it is not mould, but efflorescence, or to be more precise - lime efflorescence. So it's not the clay that flakes off and it's not mould, but the finest lime particles that remain on the surface when the water evaporates. These can be washed off with water (preferably after you have harvested a ring).

  • Don't worry, this can happen in the first 1-2 nights. The worms are still excited from the journey and can make themselves so thin that they can get through almost anywhere. To help you collect them, we recommend placing a ring of damp cloth on the floor around the composter so that the worms can crawl underneath. You can then collect them alive and put them back in the composter, otherwise the worms will unfortunately dry out. If the worms continue to run away, you can add 2-3 litres of moist soil (preferably with old root balls or garden soil containing clay - not fertilised) to the composter (ready-made soil from the DIY store is not suitable - these are usually heavily fertilised) - this gives the worms more space to avoid each other, sometimes they have a little density stress at the beginning. If your HOME has been in use for a long time, the worm escape is a sign that something is wrong in the composter. If this is the case, check all levels for worms. If there are any left, mix dry cardboard or other litter material (flower stalks, straw, old leaves, old potting compost - 2 - 3 litres - unfertilised, i.e. not from the garden centre) into the compost mass in all tiers or the remaining tiers. A feeding break of 2 to 3 weeks also works wonders. Acidity in the composter could be a reason for the worm escape. You can counteract this with mineral mix or finely crushed eggshells.

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  • There are many different types of earthworms. Compost worms are used for composting - Eisenia foetida. Unlike earthworms in the soil, these are not solitary and can be kept in a clay tube etc. without ethical concerns.

  • It's far too damp in your HOME. Check all the layers for worms. If there are very few or none left and the layers smell very bad, you can use the compost contents as plant fertiliser or, in the worst case, dispose of them. If, in addition to the moisture, the situation appears to be OK, mix dry cardboard or other structural material (flower stems, straw, old leaves, old flower pot soil) into the compost in all layers or the remaining layers. A feeding break of 2 - 3 weeks also works wonders. It is really essential that the worms' food consists of up to 1/2 cellulose/structural material. Without cardboard and the like, the composter will not work properly and the worms will die because the system will collapse (no more oxygen in the compost mass). It is also very important that you regularly check the bottom layers and make sure that everything is in order - the grids must have contact with the waste/worm compost - otherwise the worms will not reach the food and will die. You should also dig in the composter from time to time to get an idea of the decomposition of the material and the well-being of the worms.

  • Look for worms in all layers (feel free to rummage through them once) and check whether the individual layers "touch" each other - i.e. whether there is a gap between the grids. If so, you should fill them up with used potting soil. If there are no worms left, you can order a new population from our online shop. Please check the moisture and consistency of the compost in HOME before restarting.

  • In a shady spot, between your plants. In a raised bed or outdoor bed, possibly also in a large plant pot. As deep as possible, so that all holes are surrounded by soil. There should be enough space around the TUBE (we recommend 30 - 50cm). When the tube is full, either the whole tube can be moved and restarted or the compost can be harvested. Further information on operation can be found in the instructions.

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  • The WormUp TUBE is 32cm high and ø 24cm, weight approx. 4.5kg. You can dispose of 0.3 - 0.5kg of organic waste per week. Feeding should be discontinued in winter or at temperatures below 10°C.

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  • As the worms stop their activity in the cold season (from temperatures below 10°C), retreat into deeper layers and go into a kind of hibernation, they are not fed during this time.

    HOME: The HOME is not frost-proof and should therefore be kept in a frost-free room in winter. If it does spend the odd freezing night outside, be sure to check that the worms are doing well.

    TUBE: The TUBE is frost-proof and can be left in the ground over the winter.

  • Per module: 120cm length / 70cm width / 60cm height. A SCALE module can hold approx. 7.5kg of waste per week.

  • Yes - The larch wood of the SCALE and Raised Bed is untreated and can simply be replaced if necessary after a few years (or if it is no longer so attractive).

  • If the SCALE is placed in the garden - i.e. on unsealed ground - it remains open at the bottom. On terraces or sealed surfaces, a closed base (to protect the ground) is recommended. A semi-shady spot is ideal. In winter, the worms reduce their activity depending on the temperature. During "normal operation", the worm population then retreats to deeper layers and comes back to the surface when temperatures warm up. Further information on operation can be found in the instructions.

Personal Assistance

Whatever it may be, we are happy to answer all your questions about the world of worm composting. We are a small team - striving to make our knowledge as accessible as possible online. Therefore, we kindly ask you to first explore our extensive online resources such as FAQs, operating instructions, blogs, and the worm food list to see if your question can be answered there.

If you still couldn't find an answer to your question, please send us a message to our compost advice, and we will be happy to assist you.

To help you to the best of our ability, we need as much information as possible. Please copy the following list and answer the questions in your email:

  1. What have you noticed and since when?
  2. Photo of the contents (so we can get an idea)
  3. Which product do you have?
  4. Location of the composter
  5. When did you start using the composter?
  6. What does it smell like?
  7. Worms: Where are they and how are they doing?
  8. Moisture: What does the fist test reveal?
  9. Last harvest: Timing and quality of the humus
  10. Feed: Was anything unusual/deviating in the last four weeks?
  11. Did you add enough structural material (30-50% volume)?
  12. Additives: Do you regularly add minerals/mineral mix/balance mix and how much?
  13. Co-inhabitants: Do you have a particularly large number of animals of one species besides the worms?
  14. Try to identify them clearly.
    We will get back to you as soon as possible!

Telephone Consultation:

Would you like to speak with us by phone? Then please provide us with your phone number, and we will contact you by phone every Wednesday between 14:00 and 17:00.